Saffron and Suitcases: Paris, January 2012.

5.4.12

Paris, January 2012.

"If one of us dies, the husband said to his wife, I shall move to Paris."

SIGMUND FREUD

"To inhale Paris preserves the soul."

VICTOR HUGO

My journal...

I have visited Paris many times before. For me it is a truly special place. I cannot be sad in Paris. It is the perfect destination for me, when suffering from the post Christmas blues. J'aime Paris. I love everything Parisian (well almost). This time I went specifically for the art as there were three amazing temporary exhibitions on at the same time.

I took an early Eurostar train which arrived at the Gare du Nord in Paris in time for breakfast. I dropped my luggage off at my hotel and I was off on my Parisian adventure...

Hello Seine and hello Eiffel Tower...

An ornate bronze boy and fish statue on the 'Pont Alexandre III'
overlooking the river Seine.

A golden angel guarding the 'Pont Alexandre III' which James Bond
jumped from, onto a boat on the river...

And a statue of a girl holding a conch shell on the pont.

I stop for tea at the 'Petit Palais' al fresco of course,
even though it is January...

And then over the road to the Grand Palais for the 'Stein Collection' exhibition.
A collection of paintings that had belonged to the Avant-Garde
American Stein family: Gertrude, Leo, Michael and his wife Sarah.

The exhibition poster.

The exhibition was as much about the Stein family
who did the collecting as it was about the artwork.
Gertrude Stein and her partner Alice B Toklas
are pictured in the photo above in their drawing
room surrounded by contemporary artwork.

In 1907 Apollinaire said:

"That American lady who along with her brothers

and other family members became the most

surprising patrons of our time,

sockless in Delphic sandals they wander around,

their scientific minds raised skybound."

This painting is tender and very beautiful. It shows Bonnard's wife Marthe, sleeping.
He loved to paint her and did so, over several decades.

'La Sieste'
PIERRE BONNARD 1900

This painting was very controversial in 1905. Paris was shocked.
The colours were thought to be totally outrageous...

'Woman with a Hat'
HENRI MATISSE 1905

This painting is 7ft tall and was my favourite.
Picasso painted it during his 'Rose Period'.
It has a fantastical desert background.

'Boy Leading a Horse'
PABLO PICASSO 1905-06

On my way back to my hotel the Parisian florists along the
way were selling mimosa from Provence that smelled divine.

And it was so pretty too...

Next day, off on the Metro to the Musee Luxemburg...

On tiptoes...he could do with a ladder...

A lone accordian player at the metro station serenading travellers with
a haunting rendition of 'Ave Maria'.

Luxemburg Gardens. Rows of geometric deciduous trees.
I felt like I had stepped into an Impressionist's painting.

The Musee Luxemburg and there is no-one around...

Apart from him on the left relaxing with the marble sculptures...

The bare 'bones' of the gardens...

On to the next exhibition 'Cezanne et Paris'

Cezanne was famous for his unique geometric style of painting in saturated blocks of colour.

'Quartier du Four, Auvers-sur-Oise'

PAUL CEZANNE 1873

'River Banks'

PAUL CEZANNE 1904-05

'A Modern Olympia'

PAUL CEZANNE 1873-74

A controversial (in 1874) erotic nude take on Manet's Olympia.

This is one of my favourite paintings ever; Edouard Manet's infamous 'Olympia' which hangs in the Musee D'Orsay.
It was exhibited at 'Le Salon' in Paris in 1865 and it caused an outcry. Beautiful, brazen Olympia dares to stare at
us straight from the painting and the black maid conjured up images of the harem.

Cezanne eventually gets all his erotic tensions out of his system
and then just paints nudes??!!

'Three Bathers'

PAUL CEZANNE 1876-77

On my way back to my hotel, I noticed some 'street art'
on the side of a building. A black cat and a penguin family...

The next day I pass the elegant and imposing
'Assemblee Nationale' building on my way
to the Musee Rodin.

In the Musee Rodin gardens a bird in a tree...
Well a wood pigeon in a crab apple tree to be precise...

The mystical sulphur coloured spider-like flowers of Witch Hazel that
filled the air with a heady cloying fragrance.

And from the winter flowering Viburnam's knarled stems,
its pale-pink buds were heavily and deliciously scented too...

OMG! It really is 'The Thinker', just hanging out 'en plein air' within the
grounds of the Musee Rodin. The Thinker dates from 1881 and portrays
Dante but could just as easily be Rodin himself, reflecting on his work.

Another Rodin sculpture 'en plein air'...

She didn't mind me taking this photo...

Sometimes the camera sees more than you do;
three bodies, two pairs of legs...

Off to Rodin's exhibition 'Capturing the Model' now, which
consisted of 300 drawings and watercolours
completed in the last 30 years of his life...

In 1906, some Royal Cambodian dancers were visiting Paris...

Rodin said: "I contemplated them in ecstasy."

Rodin was spellbound and became addicted...
He ran out of paper to draw on and had
to resort to sketching on waxed paper
used for wrapping meat from a butcher...

Rodin's Cambodian Dancers

And then on to the exquisite nudes...

A delicate Rodin nude watercolour...

And another...

Rodin said that he was obsessed with the line of the female body...


And finally...

On my way back to my hotel, I pass the magical,
twinkling, Eiffel Tower again and it never,
ever, ceases to make my heart skip a beat...

Au revoir Paris. I will return again very soon

because you have my heart...

"If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man,

then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you,

for Paris is a moveable feast."

ERNEST HEMINGWAY

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My Top 50 Moments of my 50th Year.

Watching Matt and Claire perform live as 'AugustSeptember' in Camden, London in July on Matt's birthday. Amazing electrifying performance, can't wait to see them again! The link is here:
Enjoying a scrumptious dinner, with Chantelle, of Middle Eastern fare served with flair at Silvena Rowe's Quince restaurant in London; during which we assisted Silvena in dealing with a drunken, aggressive customer, crawled around on our hands and knees (laughing hysterically) looking for the lost mobile phone of another and explained to a third how to eat his food without butter and mayonnaise. We were however presented with well deserved complimentary champagne at the end of our meal!
While in Samarkand, travelling out into the countryside and sharing lunch with a truly delightful Uzbek family in their own home. The grand matriarch of the family who was mother to thirteen children, welcomed us with a lavish spread and also demonstrated how to make their 'non' flatbread which was then baked in a fiery hot clay oven.
Spontaneous carol singers on Christmas Eve, having a house full of friends and family over the festive period and feeling relieved that my country kitchen table happily sits 12 people (well 14 people tightly!).
A truly amazing and atmospheric (we loved the smell of the incense and want the recipe for it) performance of Shakespeare's Richard II at the Donmar Warehouse Theatre. Eddie Redmayne won the 'Critics Circle Shakespeare Award for 2011' for his incredible portrayal of Richard II.
Discovering a magical square by chance in Venice that was like a film set, in the late afternoon sunshine. Scene One: a little girl with pigtails and a skipping rope. Two young boys playing football. A trio of elderly Venetian ladies, with little dogs, sat in an outside cafe, sipping Cappuccinos, clad in fur coats and pearls. A small group of local men chatting together, drinking Spritz. Only the small child with a hoop and stick was missing from the vignette...
My 'English Patient' moment. Being guided across the sand dunes of the desert of Turkmenistan to Gonur Tepe. Here we explored the incredible 4000 year old remains of what is believed to be the 5th oldest civilisation on earth. And, meeting the Greek-Russian archaeologist, Viktor Sarianidi (now aged 82 years) who discovered the site.
My first 'salt therapy' treatment in the 'salt cave' in Tunbridge Wells. I was admittedly a little apprehensive and cynical beforehand but I must confess that I found the experience to be enjoyable, therapeutic, relaxing and salty...
Being captivated by the graceful paintings and photographs at the Royal Academy's Degas Ballet exhibition.
An entrancing and powerful performance of the 'Kecak' (Fire Dance) at the Chedi in Ubud, Bali. Bare-chested and wearing poleng cloth tied around their waists, a chorus of around 80 men, performed this trance-like ritual by candle light and fire torches. The men chanted 'cak, cak, cak' hypnotically to represent the sound of monkeys, as an ancient story was enacted by dance.
Strolling around the delightfully eccentric organic gardens of HRH Prince Charle's Highgrove House and asking a gardener in the potager area what the name of a climbing rose was. Her reply was: "I don't know, I only do vegetables..."
Just chilling and listening and reading and watching and thinking and wondering and wandering within the gorgeous serene surroundings of the Jeda Villa in Pemuteran, Bali.
Visiting the Pemuteran Turtle Conservation Project and being able to release a 25 year old turtle back into the sea. He had been nursed back to health after he had been accidently trapped and injured in a fisherman's net.
In the balmy, Autumn, late-afternoon sunshine, relaxing and listening to a talented young Chinese musician singing and playing his guitar; within the tranquil grounds surrounding the Temple of Heaven in Beijing.
A historic moment...just as William and Kate were solemnly exchanging their royal wedding vows, our friend Lewis announced that he couldn't find his slipper. (Fortunately we were able to rewind, otherwise Lewis would no longer be with us...).
In Bali, en-route from the south to the north of the island, sitting in a cloud, in a mountain top restaurant, surrounded by lush tropical vegetation, coffee plantations and drifts of the palest of blue hydrangeas, sharing delicious freshly made banana fritters.
Selling my first item on Ebay. Well to be precise it was a vinyl record on behalf of my brother, 'The White Album' by the Beatles.We were so excited!
The jaw-dropping 360 degree views from Dune House, the 'Living Architecture' property in Thorpeness, Suffolk.
Marching around the massive, imposing, historic Tiananmen Square, in atmospheric smog along with hundreds of friendly and welcoming domestic Chinese tourists.
After three consecutive months of work on Byeways House, the builders leave (and Barney takes his mug home).
Setting up my blog and choosing a name for it...
Chantelle's 30th birthday celebration at 'The Public House' in Islington, I am so proud of her and it was lovely to catch up with all her friends too.
My first reflexology experience, so relaxing, Brigitte seemed to like my toes.
Watching in amazement as a black panther stealthily strolls across some fields and into the woods in Catsfield, East Sussex (apparently it escaped many years ago from captivity and is only very occasionally sighted).
Discovering the late Derek Jarman's seaside cottage and unique shingle garden at Dungeness.
Finding a swathe of delicate pale purple wild orchids growing happily in our meadow.
Walking up and down the Uffizi Galleries in Florence and missing the Botticelli's, but finding the cafe, in a 'French and Saunders' kind of way...
My first glimpse of the mind-blowing, cutting-edge architecture of the 'City of Arts and Sciences' in Valencia, Spain.
Mandy and I hanging out our own washing on a real Venetian washing line in a real Venetian street.
Marvelling at Ai Weiwei's Sunflower Seeds with my friend Ruth at the Tate Gallery.
Drinking Bellinis with Mandy on our apartment's terrace overlooking the rooftops of Venice.
Returning to our palatial room in our Florentine hotel on our first evening out to find that the kind Italian gentleman on reception had mended our DVD player, moved it into our bedroom and set it up with the film we wanted to watch while in bed.
At night, drinking in the sublime view from the roof top terrace (OK with blankets ), of our palace in Florence, Italy.
The magical 'Interpreti Veneziani' Concert (Violins of Venice) at Chiesa San Vidal in Venice (serendipity reigned true )on my actual birthday.
Enjoying a Persian lunch at Petersham nursery restaurant with Chantelle. It was cooked by Skye Gyngell just after she had been awarded a Michelin star.
The breathtaking moment when the Japanese geishas appear to glide elegantly down the staircases at the Royal Albert Hall during a performance of Pucinni's opera 'Madame Butterfly'.
Enjoying an indulgent afternoon tea served with pink champagne and good friends in the oak panelled tea room of the historic Browns Hotel in London.
Hearing the ecstatic news that the artist Ai Weiwei had finally been released from prison in China. June 2011.
Enjoying a fun, vibrant and energetic performance of the 'Merchants of Bollywood' with Carol at the Peacock Theatre in London.
Sitting drinking tea (I seem to do a lot of this) with Katy at 'Petals Garden Centre' when we hear an almighty crash of thunder, as the building is struck by lightening!
Riding in an old Russian jeep with my 'Wild Frontiers' group across the desert in Turkmenistan.
Watching Jude Law making an entrance on stage at the Donmar Warehouse Theatre during a performance of 'Anna Christie'.... He emerged bare-chested from the sea, shipwrecked, and clambered aboard a rescue boat to safety. A pivotal moment in my 50th year!
Arriving at our stunning, luxurious apartment in Valencia, Spain, our home for a few days and our chance to be a local.
Gazing out at the magical stars in the clear desert sky, while camping overnight at the Darvaza flaming gas crater in the Karakoum desert in Turkmenistan.
Visiting the mausoleum of Chairman Mao Zedong in Beijing and oggling respectfully at his body, lying in a 'pickled' state in a crystal coffin on a marble slab.
Watching a beautiful and emotive performance of the production 'Salt Root and Roe' on stage at the Trafalgar Studios in London and meeting the young, shy, contemporary playwright Tim Price afterwards.
Listening to an accordian player's hauntingly beautiful rendition of 'Ave Maria' while standing on a Metro station platform in Paris.
Attending the very moving Royal British Legion 'Silence in Trafalgar Square'. At 11.00am on the 11th day of the 11th month in the 11th year the 'Last Post' was sounded by the bugler, resplendent in his bearskin hat and greatcoat. I stood in silence, shoulder to shoulder with world war II veterans, school children, and uniformed service men and women. 11.11.11.11.
Sitting in Sarah Raven's cavernous conservatory at Perch Hill, looking out across the picturesque valley with Katy, drinking tea and putting the world to rights, totally on our own on a sunny December morning.
Perusing Rodin's exquisite watercolour and ink drawings of colour washed nudes and exotic Cambodian dancers at the Musee Rodin in Paris.

50 MEANS OF TRANSPORT CHALLENGE

50. Snow sledge made from a body board on the beach at Thorpeness in Suffolk. February 2012.
49. The London Eye. January 2012.
48. Open top London sightseeing bus. Circuit Trafalgar Square. January 2012.
47. Amphibious wartime vehicle (duck) around London on land and then launched into the Thames river. January 2012.
46. London Overground. Highbury and Islington to Canonbury. January 2012.
45. Docklands Light Railway. Canary Wharf to Bank. January 2012.
44. Hastings cliff-top lift. Snade to East cliff. January 2012.
43. HGV French Lorry. Broad Oak to Burwash. January 2012.
42. Horse-box van. Broad Oak circuit. January 2012.
41. RHDR Steam Railway. Dungeness to Romney. January 2012.
40. Lift at Gare du Nord Paris. January 2012.
39. Paris Metro. January 2012.
38. Paris Eurostar. Ashford to Paris. January 2012.
37. Tuk tuk. Beijing, China. October 2011.
36. Four wheel drive vehicle. Karakum desert Turkmenistan. October 2011.
35. Russian Jeep. Karakum desert Turkmenistan. October 2011.
34. Uzbekistan underground. October 2011.
33. Valencian Tram. Valencia, Spain. September 2011.
32. Valencian Metro. Valencia, Spain. September 2011.
31. 100cc Motor Scooter. Broad Oak. August 2011.
30. Wheelbarrow. Terrace to summerhouse. July 2011.
29. Lotus Elise open top 2 seater sports car. Tenterden to Broad Oak. July 2011.
28. Rickshaw. Peacock Theatre London to Charing Cross train station. July 2011.
27. Red Funnel Vehicle Ferry. IOW to Southampton. June 2011.
26. Hovercraft. IOW to Portsmouth. June 2011.
25. Floating Bridge. Cowes IOW. June 2011.
24. Red Jet Catamaran to Isle of Wight. June 2011.
23. Hythe Ferry. June 2011.
22. Hythe Pier Train. June 2011.
21. Minibus. Heathrow UK. April 2011.
20. Travellator. Singapore. April 2011.
19. Buggy. Komaneka hotel Bali. April 2011.
18. A 'berahou'. A motorised fishing boat. Bali. April 2011.
17. Jedda-Mobile. Bali. April 2011.
16. Skytrain. Singapore airport. March 2011.
15. Airbus 380 (double decker plane). London to Singapore. March 2011.
14. Miniature Train. Montpellier, France. March 2011.
13. Carousel. Montpellier. March 2011.
12. Black Cab. London. March 2011.
11. London Bus. February 2011.
10. London Underground. February 2011.
9. South Eastern Train. Stonegate to Charing Cross. February 2011.
8. Private Car. UK. February 2011.
7. Coach. Venice. February 2011.
6. Water Taxi. Venice. February 2011.
5. Traghetto Gondola. Venice. February 2011.
4. Vaporetto Water Bus. Venice. February 2011.
3. Italian Eurostar Train. Florence to Venice. February 2011.
2. Taxi ( hairy and dirty). Florence. February 2011.
1. Aeroplane. Florence. February 2011.

50 NEW FOODS OR DRINK

50. Arctic Char. A cold water fish related to the salmon. I bought a tin of this from the 'Old Market Hall' in Helsinki and it cost a king's ransom. We ate it at home with paprika and garlic roasted new potatoes and a sort of Scandinavian style salad. It tasted very like tinned red salmon, perhaps a little meatier. We were very hungry. August 2012.
49. Karjalanpiirakka. A traditional Finnish pastry, like an open pasty, made from a rye crust and encasing a filling of rice pudding or mashed potato!?! I sampled one for breakfast in Helsinki and wished that I hadn't. In fact I don't know whether it had a filling of soft potato or rice pudding. The positive was that it counts towards my food challenge. Finland. June 2012.
48. Sea Buckthorn Berry. An astringent vivid orange berry. Hailed as a 'super berry' due to its high vitamin C content. It grows as a very thorny deciduous shrub but I enjoyed it thorn-free served as a sauce to accompany chicken in a restaurant in Helsinki. Finland. June 2012.
47. Finn Royale. Cloudberry liquer mixed with sparkling white wine. A Finnish take on the classic French Kir Royale, obviously... Enjoyed at 'Aino Restaurant', Helsinki, Finland. June 2012.
46. Ice Wine. The wine is made from frozen grapes that are harvested when the temperature has reached -8 degrees or less. The resulting dessert wine is intensely sweet as it is high in natural sugar. I loved this wine but it induced a powerful headache. Sampled at the Pillitteri Estates winery, Niagara on the Lake. Canada. June 2012.
45. Spider crab. Giant sized crabs that tasted divine, served as part of a seafood buffet at Niagara Falls. June 2012.
44. Peameal Bacon. A cured Canadian bacon rolled in cornmeal. It used to be rolled in dried yellow peas, hence the name. I enjoyed it in a sandwich with Canadian mustard, Al Fresco in a cafe, by the side of lake Ontario. Toronto, Canada. June 2012.
43. Rose Apple. The colour of pink roses, shaped like a small pear, with a dry, crisp delicate-flavoured hard white flesh. Eaten in Phnom Penh. Cambodia. June 2012.
42. Plai P'new Fruit or Guest Fruit. A small bunched fruit, creamy-yellow in colour. Similar to a lychee in texture but tasting a little sour. Very refreshing and enjoyed as part of a picnic in Koh Kong province. Cambodia. May 2012.
41. 'Femme Fatale Cocktail'. I drank this elegant cocktail consisting of Champagne, Cognac and Creme de Fraise Sauvage in the Elephant Bar at Raffles Hotel in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. The crimson coloured cocktail was originally created for Jacqui Kennedy in 1967 when she stayed at Raffles. It was said that the cocktail was as 'red as her lips'. Cambodia. May 2012.
40. The King's Ginger Liqueur. A deliciously fiery 41% alcohol drink. St Ives, Cornwall. April 2012.
39. White Balsamic Vinegar. I used this in a salad dressing as I would the more traditional balsamic vinegar. April 2012.
38. Boilers Golden Cornish Ale. A golden coloured beer with a pungent hop aroma. Brewed in the St Ives brewery in Cornwall. Cornwall. April 2012.
37. Chinese Tea tree mushrooms. Served as part of the Mongolian Hot Pot feast. March 2012.
36. Mongolian flat bean noodles. Part of the Mongolian Hot Pot feast and tasting a bit like pasta. March 2012.
35. Leek Flower Sauce. A spicy sauce served as an accompaniment with the Mongolian Hot Pot. March 2012.
34. White Pak Choi. White chinese cabbage served as part of a Mongolian Hot Pot feast. March 2012.
33. Thread Kelp. A type of seaweed served as part of a Mongolian Hot Pot feast. London. March 2012.
32. Dukkha. A dried Middle Eastern dip served with olive oil and bread. Its ingredients include crushed whole spices like coriander and cumin seeds, crushed peppercorns,chopped nuts and fresh thyme. Quince restaurant, London. November 2011.
31. Quinoa. Served as a salad with fresh mint, cucumber, tomato and olives. Juliets, Tunbridge Wells. November 2011.
30. Barberries. A sour berry ( berberis), sold dried in the central market in Uzbekistan. Added to rice dishes and reputed in the West to be a'super-food'. October 2011.
29. Kurut. Dried sour yoghurt balls. Yum yum... Uzbekistan. October 2011.
28. Plov. A traditional Central Asian dish of cooked rice with grated carrot and fatty mutton meat pieces, similar to a pilaf. Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. October 2011.
27. Non. Uzbek traditional flatbread cooked in a clay oven. Uzbekistan October 2011.
26. Uzbek Champagne. At US$3 a bottle, our last night in Bukhara was very bubbly... Uzbekistan, October 2011.
25. Membrillo. A sweet aromatic paste made from quinces and traditionally served with cheese. Valencia 2011.
24. Agua de Valencia. Valencian drink consisting of Cava, orange juice and Vodka. Lethal stuff, when in Valencia...September 2011.
23. Morcilla de Burgos. Spanish black pudding. Spicy, meaty and very tasty. Valencia, September 2011.
22. Fartons. Finger shaped iced buns that are traditionally served with horchata. Valencia, September, 2011.
21. Horchata. A traditional healthy and popular Valencian drink served chilled and made from tiger nuts, water and sugar. It looks and sounds a little weird but we loved it.September 2011.
20. Cuttlefish. Served grilled with garlic sauce. Tastes a little like squid, delicious! Valencia, Spain. September 2011.
19. Labneh. A soft cheese made from yoghurt. Served with paprika oil and nasturtium flowers. At Silvena Rowe's restaurant, Quince, in London. August 2011.
18. Colomba Pasquale. Italian Easter Dove cake. A soft intensely orange cake with almonds and candied peel, made in the shape of a dove and served at Easter. Similar in taste to an Italian panettone. Easter 2011.
17. Tamarind icecream. Sour, fragrant and refreshing. Indus restaurant, Bali. April 2011.
16. Tempeh. A unique Indonesian speciality. Made from cooked and partly fermented soy beans, moulded into shapes. It has a textured and nutty flavour and is high in protein and calcium. Too bland tasting for me... Bali. April 2011.
15. Balinese Rijstafel. A selection of traditional dishes served like Spanish 'tapas'. April 2011.
14. Dewi Sri Brem Bali. Balinese Rice Wine. Pretty disgusting stuff, tasted like a cross between vinegar and floor cleaner...April 2011.
13. Jukut Ares. Sliced young banana stem and pork loin. Bali April 2011.
12. Suckling pig. Tender, succulent and tasty with crackling. Served in a bustling local restaurant in Ubud Bali. April 2011.
11. Aligot. A traditional french dish of mashed potatoes, garlic, butter, cream and melted cheese which are combined together until they produce an elastic consistency. A skilled waiter will serve it to you from a great height, twisting and turning the mixture with two spoons, as if it were spaghetti. Scrumptious stuff. Maison de la Lozere restaurant, Montpellier. March 2011.
10. Razor Clams. I removed them from their slate-like narrow oblong shells and cooked them fresh from the fishmongers in olive oil, with fresh parsley, lemon and garlic. March 2011.
9. Sharon Fruit. A small, glowing, orange fruit from Israel. Slightly firm in texture and very sweet in taste. February 2011.
8. Pomegranate Bellini. Pomegranate mollases, pomegranate juice and Prosecco. Another one please? London. February 2011.
7. Rhubarb and Rose Petal Cordial. Delicious. Petersham Nursery Cafe. February 2011.
6. Buttermilk Ice Cream. Very refreshing and slightly sour. Served with a dried fruit compote. Petersham Nursery Cafe. February 2011.
5. Moscow Mule Cocktail. Vodka, ginger beer and lime. Very, very nice. Detroit Bar, London. February 2011.
4. Galani. A Venetian pastry, light and delicious. Venetian Patisserie. February 2011.
3. Spritz. A Venetian aperitif made from white wine, sparkling water and bitter orange Aperol or Campari. Its bitter edge softened by a salty green olive and a citrus twist. Too bitter for me! Venice, February 2011.
2. Potato Gnocchi. Very tasty and light, Italian dumplings, an alternative to pasta. Florence, February 2011.
1. Stracciatella. A creamy mozarella type of cheese, very rich. Florence, February 2011.

MY TOP 50 TRAVEL MOMENTS EVER

In a post office, in Chau Doc, way down south in the Vietnamese Mekong Delta; to the amusement of an ever increasing audience of locals, attempting to stick stamps on our postcards by licking them first. One uses a pot of glue in the delta.. .
A memorable horse and cart ride around Marrakech when Chantelle and I realised that we were both still definitely allergic to horses...
Visiting the local market in the Golden Triangle with a chef to purchase ingredients for a cookery course and spontaneously purchasing all the baby turtles for sale in the market along with a bucket and then setting them free in the Mekong river.
Drinking a spritzer of 'Frascati and tap water' in a restaurant in Rome, something got lost in translation...
Being told to "mind my own business, madam" by a female security guard at the Coliseum in Rome when I commented on the fact that a member of the security personnel was sending text messages rather than scrutinising the Xray images on his screen..
Flight to Everest and back, wow!
Taking the 'ferry' from Thailand's Golden Triangle to the border town in Laos (OK it was a rowing boat) but I sort of imagined a car ferry...
Prayer flags, yak butter lamps and chanting Tibetans spinning prayer wheels at the most sacred Buddhist temple in Kathmandu.
Watching fire flies and listening to geckos while enjoying dinner of pickled bamboo and young rattan shoots cooked in fermented bean paste at the 'Boat Landing Guest House' in Luang Nam Tha, Laos.
Being told that my hand luggage had tested positive for explosives at Gatwick airport.
Missing my flight to Cairo.
Drinking pre-dinner cocktails at the eccentric, eclectic, over the top Helga's Folly in Kandy, Sri Lanka.
Being blessed by an elephant at the busy, frenetic, Hindu, Meenakshi Temple, Madurai, Tamil Nadu, India.
Sitting in a cloud and hearing the 'clip clip' of the tea pickers in Munnar, India.
Hearing for the first time the gentle, spiritual, Gamelan musicians in Bali.
The jaw-dropping view of the lake, mountains and grassland from the Elephant Corridor Hotel, Sri Lanka.
Not eating my pig's trotters in a restaurant in Lille, France.
An enchanting Puccini and Mozart recital at Chiesa San Giovanni , Lucca, Tuscany, Italy.
The steep climb to King Ludwig's Neuschwanstein castle, Bavaria, Germany.
Walking through a field of spring flowers in Skiathos.
Driving around the Champagne vineyards in Reims and Epernay, France.
Riding an elephant for the first time in Thailand through the jungle.
Watching an evening performance of the legendary Kecak Fire Dance in the aphitheatre at the Chedi Club Hotel in Ubud, Bali.
The beautiful Neka Art Museum, Ubud, Bali.
Planting my very own tree in the rainforest at the Golden Triangle, Thailand.
The Vatican's imposing art collection, Rome.
The spectacular terraced Castle Gardens with grape vines, figs, apricots, plums and exotic climbing plants, Prague.
Climbing to the top of Sigiriya Rock, despite the warnings about 'agressive swarms of hornets' to the palace remains, Sri Lanka.
A special, private puppet show in Mandalay, Myanmar.
The boisterous fish market of Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania.
Seeing a dhow on the horizon and the turqouise waters of Zanzibar.
Padstow harbour and our apartment overlooking it.
Climbing up to the Mount Popa Buddhist Temple, in torrential rain, in bare feet with an added handicap of an adult monkey on my back for part of the journey...Myanmar.
Attending a Paul Gauguin exhibition and my feet hurting at the Grand Palais, Paris.
Enjoying hot chocolate and churros at San Gines Chocolateria in Madrid.
Trekking up to the 'World Peace Pagoda' in Pokhora, Nepal accompanied by a local student who was an expert guide.
The very emotional and privileged experience of visiting Gandhi's House, Mumbai, India.
The Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam with its amazing collection arranged chronologically so you can see how his work changed as he grew older and wiser!
The view of the Taj Mahal and stunning gardens from our hotel room in Agra, India.
The delicious 'Chocolate Buffet' and afternoon tea served at the colonial Metropole Hotel, Hanoi, Vietnam.
Accidentally checking in for a Copenhagen flight when we were actually flying to Stockholm. Wrong city and wrong country..
Manet's 'Olympia' in the Musee D'Orsay, Paris.
Seeing Ho Chi Minh lying in state looking almost regal with his long white hair and beard as we solemnly walked by, Hanoi, Vietnam.
First sight of the deep, blue, seaview from our room in the Mykonos Grand, Mykonos.
The magical experience of being at the top of the Eiffel Tower at night and looking down on Parisian life, all lit up below.
The full on Souks of Marrakech, Morocco.
Discovering my first lotus flower, jasmine garland and mountains of orchids at the Night Flower market of Bangkok.
Staying at Raffles Hotel, Singapore along with a'' Singapore Sling' in the Long Bar.
Marvelling at the sleek steel Petronas Twin Towers of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
Sunset with the fishermen in the harbour of Essaouira, Morocco.
My first glimpse of the pyramids of Egypt.
Enjoying My first ever Thai massage while admiring the spectacular reclining Buddha at Wat Po, Bangkok.
My first boat trip on the Grand Canal, Venice.
Standing on the top of a hill and looking down on the tiered rice terraces in the valley below in the Tonkinese Alps, Sapa, North Vietnam.
Travelling on the back of motorbikes to see the ancient jungle temples of Hue, Vietnam.
My first ever long tailed speed boat trip along the klongs of outer Bangkok.
Arriving at the peaceful Inle Lake Retreat in Myanmar, by a little boat rowed by a traditional Intha leg rower with incredible acrobatic agility.
Attending an Indian wedding in Cochin Kerala, South India.
The serenity of Jim Thompson's house and gardens in Bangkok, Thailand.

Countries I Have Managed to Visit...

Abu Dhabi
Austria: Bregenzwald.
Belgium: Brussels, Bruges.
Borneo
Cambodia: Phnom Penh, Siam Reap.
Canada: Toronto, Niagara Falls
China: Beijing.
Croatia: Opatija
Cyprus: North.
Czech Republic: Prague.
Denmark: Copenhagen.
Dubai
Egypt: Cairo.
Finland: Helsinki.
France: Paris, Montpellier, Arles, Toulouse, Nice, Lille, Montreuil, Le Touquet.
Germany: Bavaria.
Greece: Mykonos, Skiathos, Crete, Corfu.
Guernsey.
Holland: Amsterdam.
Hong Kong.
Hungary: Budapest.
India: Agra,Kerala, Mumbai, Tamil Nadu.
Indonesia: Bali, Lombok.
Ireland: Dublin.
Isle of Wight.
Israel
Italy: Rome, Verona, Venice, Florence, Lucca, Turin, Burano, Murano.
Laos: Luang Nam Tha, Vientiene.
Malaysia: Kuala Lumpur, Pangkor Laut.
Malta
Montenegro
Morocco: Marrakech, Ouarzazate, Essaouria, Tangiers.
Myanmar: Yangoon,. Mandalay, Inle Lake, Bagan.
Nepal: Kathmandu and Pokhora.
Norway: Oslo.
Palestine
Peru: Lima, Iquitos, the Amazon.
Philippines
Portugal: Lisbon, Sintra, Porto.
Qatar
Scotland: Edinburgh.
Singapore.
South Korea
Spain: Madrid, Santiago De Compostella, Barcelona, Seville, Valencia, Menorca, Lanzarote.
Sri Lanka: Kandy, Colombia.
Sweden: Stockholm.
Switzerland: Zurich.
Taiwan
Tanzania: Dar Es-Salaam.
Thailand: Bangkok, Hua Hin, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Koh Lak.
Tunisia: Hammamet.
Turkey: Istanbul, Side.
Turkmenistan: Ashgabat, Mary, Merv
USA: New York.
Uzbekistan: Taschkent, Samarkand, Bukhara
Vatican City
Vietnam: Sapa, Hanoi, Hoi An, Can Tho, Chau Doc, Saigon, Hue.
Wales.
Zanzibar.

PLACES I WOULD LIKE TO VISIT

Argentina
Athens, Greece
Bhutan
Cappadocia
Chile
Columbia
Cordoba, Spain
Corsica
Damascus, Syria
Ecuador
Ethiopia
Granada, Spain
Grasse, France
Guatemala
Havana, Cuba
Iceland
Iran
Iraq
Isle of Skye
Izmir, Turkey
Japan
Jordan
Krakow, Poland
Lebanon
Libya
Mexico
More of Morocco
Moscow, Russia
Myanmar again
Nagaland
Namibia
North Korea
Oman
Panama
Persia
Rajasthan, India
Return to Egypt
Santorini
Sardinia
St Petersburg, Russia
Syria
Tahiti
The Dead Sea
The Grand Canyon
Timbuktu, Mali
Vienna, Austria
Yemen

"At the bottom of the pile
buried and missing a cover
there is a book.
It isn't a popular book
and the author's name
you'd never known.
But it's truly a work of art
written just for you.

Inside somewhere near the middle pages,
there is a sentence
that best describes your life
and answers all the questions youv'e ever had.

Pure poetry.
It's remarkable
You'd agree.
Sadly,
You'll never read it
because it is getting late
and you have work in the morning
and you are already thinking about
how to beat the traffic".

DALLAS CLAYTON

Saffron and Suitcases

5.4.12

Paris, January 2012.

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